The Oldest Living Thing in the World

Back again to fill in a gap from the way up...Bristlecone Pines.

This time we spent most of a day stunned and enthralled by these ancient trees. The rangers are real enthusiasts who share their passion for these trees so that you cannot fail to understand their importance.

The study of the growth rings of the old trees has been use to help date other ancient artifacts and re-calibrate the carbon dating process.

While the oldest tree (call Methuselah but not identified) is 4700 years old, around the centre there are about 100 young seedlings growing. So there is an exciting feeling of a living, continuous history with strong future.

A great uplifting place to end our magical trip through the west...as Vegas does not really count.

The Last of the Sierra - All About Water

The 10 days after we left Carson City were shaped by rain and snow. Rather unexpected, but that is the US for you.

It started in June Lakes, our first stop, where our multi day hike up Rush Creek onto the PCT was reduced to a one day hike up to Gem Lake. We were restricted as the higher trails were closed due to high water levels that threatened to break the dams and flood the valley trails. Scary so we obeyed.

Still this had the benefit of giving me time for a bit of fishing, more water based activity. True to form I failed to bother any fish, but was rewarded with a display of angling by an osprey that dropped out of the sky in front of me to snatch a fish out of the lake. Spectacular.

At Mammoth we tried again, planning a long day hike round the Summit Meadow trail loop, but again were thwarted by water/snow. It started ok, and we managed to cross the swollen King Creek in style, but higher up the old winter snow caused problems. It was not the depth, it was quite firm, but it covered the trail and despite our best efforts we kept getting lost. So we stopped at Fern lake and returned by the wet way way we went up, getting  back in time for the last bus back down to Mammoth.

This trail had the advantage of starting at the Devil's Postpile so we picked up another monument tick as well. 

To continue the watery theme we also had our first and last rain of the holiday in Mammoth. It was at night and only I got wet , running around putting our camping chairs into shelter. And we got round to see many of the Mammoth lakes including Horseshoe, Arrowhead, and Emerald...so we know about the water.

Our next stop was up Bishop Creek where we  managed to beat the water and have a bit of an adventurous success. On the map we saw a fine little hill,  Chocolate Mountain, that looked a reasonable hight and angle,  but there was no trail up it. So we took a risk,  used good old mountain craft and set off up the line of least resistance on the north ridge. And we got to the top, with just enough challange and uncertainty to make it interesting. We even found a path down on the south face so we did the traverse and had a charming walk back by the Chocolate Lakes. 

In Pine Creek, our last stop in the Sierras, water played a part again. We planned to go up the south fork to see the Palisade Glacier but two separate people, who looked knowedgeable, insisted the streams and bridges were unpassable, so we should go up the north fork instead. After some thought we  took their collective advice and were rewarded with an enjoyable saunter around the lakes under Temple Crag and the North Palisade. Temple Crag has some spectacular lines,  which we found out about from a couple who were camped in the basin. They were off to climb there the next day so very jealous.

Next and last stop- the White Mountains 

Yosemite

We hiked down Yosemite Creek, past the falls, oggled the vast bulk of El Cap, saw the giant redwoods, climbed the SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak and hiked down Tuolumne Creek all in a wonderful 4 days.

It started with Anne introducing us to this wonderful valley, where she was brought up, by sneaking up on it by way of the Yosemite Falls. A beautiful quiet valley ended in the spectacular falls and views of magical chasm.

 We spent the night with Chas and Anne's friend Laural and Daryl who still live at the end of the valley and the next day visited some trees and got to grips with the fabled granite climbs on Daff Dome.

 This gave Fiona and I the training we needed to climb the classic SE buttress of Cathedral Peak. A fantastic 700 foot face with lots of lines and even more people. But this is not France and the Americans employed their oh so courteous 4way junction convention at all busy spots, so it was a spectacular and social climb. 

And on the last day, to top it off Chas showed us the Tuolumne Creek gorge and his favourite family picnic spots. 

So the superlatives fail me.

 Chas and Anne's kindness and generosity in showing us these special places and giving us a personal insight into this magnificent landscape is without doubt a life time high for us and we are eternally grateful.

Tomorrow we say goodbye and head south on the last leg of our odyssey.
And

Ups and Downs in Carson City

It has been a very busy  4 days.

On Monday Chas took me for a cycle ride along the famous Flume Trail, a 10 mile ride that follows the line of an old water pipe round the mountains above Lake Tahoe.

It was fantastic....until Chas fell and badly cut his nose and cheek. Lots of blood but with wads of toilet paper , an eye dressing and long strips of tape we made it back to Carson City and the hospital.



 So while Chas was nursing his injuries and seeing doctors, Fiona and I went for a 2 day hike along the Pacific Crest Trail to Ebbets Pass. This went through a magnificent wild part of the Sierra Nevada with snowy slopes, open meadows and old forrests,under some spectacular rugged mountains. We met about 40 people doing the whole trail from Mexico to Canada and were about half way through the 150 day adventure, so we felt a bit wimpy doing only 2 days.

Today we are off to Yosemite with Chas and Anne as our guide so we are in for something really special as they have both lived and worked there for many years.

Today

Carson City

We all left Vegas two days ago in high spirits after the celebrations.

 Most people were heading home in the east, but Chris and Jenea set of north to Zion while Fiona and I drove up the I95 to Carson City. 

The I95 took some getting use to. It was long and straight, I measured a 16 miles section without a wiggle. But the service stations were the high point with the usual petrol, coffee, food and some unexpected extras.

 We left the I95 on the 266 through the White Mountains and found a spectacular camp site at a cool 8000ft in the ancient  Bristlecone Pine Forrest. It was a welcome contrast to the hubbub of Vegas with views over to the Sierras and these magnificent 4000 year old trees with prickly cones.

Now with Chas and Anne in Carson planning more fun and games.

Vegas and a Wedding

Here we all are in Vegas and Chris and Jenea are married.

We had a short but very moving ceremony in a small chapel then a lunch in a very good restaurant.Now everyone is exhausted by the heat and chilling out.

The day started slowly with Greg, Chris and John going to a barbers at 8.30 for our beard trims...but they were so meticulous and slow.  Chris had to queue jump and we just managed to get back by 10.45. Quick showers and we were all ready for photos at 11.15 and married by 12.30.

It was fun walking around the strip in a kilt, but made no money from photos.

A very happy day, which we managed to share tgwith Iain and the family with whatsapp.

Capitol Reef - Part 2

We  have just left Capitol Reef after 4 really enjoyable days. There was lots to do and the camp site in Fruita so beautiful we could not tear ourselves away.

 The camp site is in an old orchard where you can pick your own fruit ( the clue is in the name...). It was shady with lots of animals to watch.
We did two more fun canyons with very different characters. The first was Cottonwood which was a 7 mile round trip with narrow squeezes, big steps where we needed old fashioned combined tactics, dead eagles and of course  hot sun. 

The second trip was down Sulphur Creek, and this was very different. It was all splashy and wet, with paddling, sliding and all sorts of  silly fun. It was particularly special as we did it with Eugene and Margaret, a delightful couple of Irish Canadians , who had not done this sort of technical plodging before.

And before you ask I was doing my best to catch Fiona after she slid down the rock and stop her going completely into the water (which would have been even funnier......for some).

Other high points included a lighting strike(far away), dust storm (small), and two burgers....so a very American desert trip. 

Now back in blistering Vegas to meet up with Chris and Jenea ....









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